Every new arrival wants to know if they can survive or live well in Thailand on X thousand baht a month?
It's a difficult question because each person has different needs. However, the following surveys and figures are from teachers actually working here! How much do they earn and what do they spend their money on?. And after each case study, I've added comments of my own.
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Steve
Working in Cha'am
Monthly Earnings 35,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
My full-time salary from school is 35,000 baht a month
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
Less than zero. I am eating into my savings every month.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
8,500 a month for a Thai-style house. It is very peaceful though!
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
Diesel for my truck comes to about 2,000 baht a month
Utility bills
Utility bills come to 5,000 a month.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
We cook our own food at home. We might have the occasional Sizzler.
Nightlife and drinking
Very little. We have a night out at the cinema once a month.
Books, computers
Steve did not answer the question
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
Its tough. I have a decent B.A and am good at what I do. In Bangkok i earned 44,000, In Cha-Am I earn 35,000. How do these teachers earn 80-90K? I have lived here three years and only seen such salaries at international schools for teachers with QTS and a proper PGCE
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Rentals and food if living the Thai life.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
50,000 baht a month to have any sort of an existence.
Phil's analysis and comment
Not really a great deal to get my teeth into there. This is a teacher earning an average salary outside of Bangkok. It clearly isn't enough given the fact that Steve is dipping into his savings each month. Not a great situation to be in.
John
Working in Bangkok
Monthly Earnings 140,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
My monthly net salary is almost exactly 140K teaching maths in a decent international school. This includes basic salary and housing allowance. There are other benefits paid annually, the main ones being a '13th month' and money for return flights home. I give additional tuition to students immediately after school for which I charge 2,000 per hour. This extra work is usually only one hour per week and gives me a little extra pocket money that my girlfriend doesn't know about :-)
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
Every payday I immediately invest 50K in funds (mostly stock related). If there is anything left at the end of the month, that gets invested too. The bonus and flight money usually go on a summer holiday for me and the girlfriend. Hopefully in 20 years there will be enough to retire on!
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I pay 24K for a two-bedroom unit in a nice but aging condo just off Sukhumvit Road and about 10 minutes walk to the BTS. I live with the girlfriend, but as she earns a much smaller local wage, I cover rent.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
I make most trips (including the commute) via BTS or MRT. Including occasional taxi trips, transportation probably comes to less than 3,000 a month.
Utility bills
When one of us is at home, the air-con is on, pushing electricity to about 2,000 a month. Phone, internet and water push the utilities total to about 3,000.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
This is probably my biggest expense. Paying for two people really adds up, especially on weekends and holidays when there's no free school lunch. My best guess for a total figure is 30,000 during term time, and more during holidays. Whilst 30K sounds like a lot, it's only 500 Baht a day each and not an area I want to scrimp on. This is one of the world's best food cities right??
Nightlife and drinking
Since meeting my girlfriend a couple of years ago, the amount of money spent on nights out has really dropped (a lot of the money saved here is now spent on food instead). An evening at the cinema is MUCH cheaper than an evening at the bars, and even if we do go to a bar, I can now pay the regular price for my girlfriend's drinks. In total nightlife is probably costing 10,000 a month.
Books, computers
I love reading but can't remember the last book I bought as there is a library in school which staff have free access to. Likewise, work provides me with a desktop in my classroom and a laptop that I can take home. So usually I spend nothing in this area.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
I used to teach in London. I lived in a bedsit on my own and struggled to save anything whilst living a dull life. In Bangkok, well, life's great! I have a nice place downtown, can eat out everyday, take of my girl, travel regularly and still save. I often think about how well teachers live here and wonder why more UK based teachers aren't moving overseas. There are LOTS of international jobs.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Whilst prices in the shops aren't always cheap compared to home, what makes living here cheap is the amount of disposable income I have. Income tax is lower whilst National Insurance and Council tax don't seem to exist.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
See comment section below.
Phil's analysis and comment
Thank you John for such a detailed and interesting survey.
John had this to say on the question of how much money does one need to survive? - "When I read these surveys, this is the question that interests me the most. Many long-term expat teachers survive in Bangkok on less than 40k a month. But I can't understand why they do this. I presume that most teachers have degrees (otherwise they wouldn't find work, right?). Surely it makes sense to study for one more year and become properly qualified (PGCE or equivalent). Armed with such a qualification, 100k plus salaries are normal, regardless of whether you teach a traditional subject or provide EAL support. London is a great city, the reason I left is that I didn't want to 'survive', I wanted to enjoy life"
It certainly sounds like you have a much better life than you did back in London John. Good on you!
William
Working in Bangkok
Monthly Earnings 35,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I work at a private language school in Bangkok doing evenings and weekends. I work three hours each evening and five hours on Saturdays and Sundays. Teachers are paid 350 baht an hour so for a 100-hour month, I receive 35,000 less a bit of tax.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
Almost nothing. Every time I manage to scrape 10,000 baht together, there is always some unexpected expense like needing a new laptop or having to make a trip to the dentist.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I live on the sixth floor of a very ordinary apartment building, where most of the residents are Thai. In fact I think I am the only foreigner. I have a fairly large studio apartment and pay 5,000 baht a month plus bills.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
My daily commute consists of a 10-baht motorcycle ride to the main road and then several stops on the sky-train, Probably around 2,000 baht a month if you factor in the odd taxi when I finish work feeling tired at 9.00 pm and just want to get home quickly.
Utility bills
I have air-conditioning but only turn it on for a few hours in the evening and in the late afternoon as I am getting ready for work. The water and electricity rarely break 500 baht a month.
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
I only eat Thai food and I try to keep my spending down to 200 baht a day or less (which is relatively easy to do) I've got to the stage where I don't miss Western food at all because when I do have it (which is rare) I'm always left disappointed. I think Western food is overpriced here and seems to get more expensive by the month. So my food bill is around 6,000 baht a month.
Nightlife and drinking
Almost nothing. I can't go out at the weekends because of work and during the week, I never really feel like it anyway.
Books, computers
I enjoy reading and download a couple of books a month and I do like my gadgets. I suspect this may all come to about 3,000 baht a month on average
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
It's OK. Nothing special. I realise that I am just treading water at the moment and there's a limit to how long I can tolerate giving up my weekends and doing the evening shifts. I'm already thinking of looking for full-time employment at a school when the busy recruitment period starts in March. At least that way I will have my evenings and weekends free.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
I think Thai food at what I call 'working class Thai restaurants' is great value at around 60-70 baht a dish. It's worth paying that bit extra compared to 40 baht street food stuff.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
As much as possible? LOL. I don't think 35,000 baht is anywhere near enough for Bangkok if you are looking for regular Western treats. 40-50K minimum. Hopefully I can start earning that amount in the future.
Phil's analysis and comment
Ah, the life of the private language school teacher. Fun for a while but eventually it wears you down.
I remember at the very first language school I worked at, we had a small group of female teachers who were teaching mainly for something to do. They were all housewives married to expats on decent relocation packages. They weren't doing it for the money. However they all refused to do evenings and weekends, They only wanted morning or early afternoon work. "Who wants to work in the evenings and at weekends when all your friends are out enjoying themselves?" they would argue.
This is true of course but most language school teachers aren't married to wealthy expats and need the work. So they do the evenings and weekends when their friends are elbow-bending in pubs and they are free during the day when those same friends are working. The language school teacher has a kind of 'alternative existence'. You are reluctant to go out on a Friday or Saturday night because you have a heavy teaching schedule the following day. From Monday to Friday, you can't go out for the day because the fact that you have lessons in the evening is constantly at the back of your mind.
It's definitely a lifestyle you have to adapt to. I did it for a number of years and although I never minded working either a Saturday or a Sunday (but not both!) I always hated leaving the building so late at night during the week - after what my fellow colleagues often referred to as the 'graveyard shift'
Martin
Working in Saudi Arabia
Monthly Earnings 364,000 baht
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
My monthly salary was 364,000 baht and that included a 65% transportation and rent allowance.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
My target was to save 300,000 each month.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I shared a 3-bedroom villa with one other person. Each of us had an en-suite bedroom and we shared the kitchen. The rent was 18,000 baht per month so my share was 9,000 baht.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
I chose to live near my school so my only transportation cost was the price of a nice bicycle. Over three years, this worked out at around 1,000 baht per month. If I wanted to travel further afield, I would hire a car for the weekend so maybe another 3,000 baht per month on average.
Utility bills
Electricity and water are subsidied by the government so even with 50+ degree summers, my AC never caused a bill of more than 500 baht. Usually, it was closer to 350 baht. Water was 100 baht, which is not bad for living in a desert!
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
Western food was imported (therefore expensive) and this was my one big indulgence - so around 30,000 baht per month.
Nightlife and drinking
Nightlife in KSA! That would be ZERO baht per month. There are no clubs, bars, cinemas, bowling alleys or any kind of public entertainment.
Books, computers
The internet was a lifeline for downloading TV programmes and books and cost 500 baht (1,000 baht split with my house mate).
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
I don't drink or smoke so the heavy restrictions were not as big a concern for me as they can be for some. You have to prepare yourself both mentally and physically before taking the plunge and moving to the KSA. You are there to earn and save with a big sacrifice in terms of having a social life.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Petrol is subsidised so works out at around 6 baht per litre. Water and electricity are also a bargain.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
Most (all?) people go to Saudi Arabia for the earning potential. I always considered 30% of my salary was for the work that I did and the other 70% was for having to endure being there. I survived and lived very well on around 50K baht per month but you would not want to work there for anything less than 250,000 per month.
Phil's analysis and comment
Thank you Martin for a very honest survey from the dunes.
Martin also had this to say - "my goal was to be able to return to Thailand without any money worries. My use of the past tense during the cost breakdown is an indication that this ' Saudi adventure' is now over and I have made it back to Thailand as of last month somewhat healthier, wealthier but maybe not so wiser"
I've heard it said many times Martin - you only go to teach in The Middle East for the money. But you did it and it sounds like it worked out well.
Paul
Working in Bangkok
Monthly Earnings About 170,000
Q1. How much do you earn from teaching per month?
I work at an international school in Bangkok and my salary is 130K after tax for a Monday to Friday position. I also do part-time Saturday teaching and the occasional evening and whilst this amount varies greatly, it averages about 40,000 baht a month extra.
Q2. How much of that can you realistically save per month?
It varies from month to month but I average about 100,000.
Q3. How much do you pay for your accommodation and what do you live in exactly (house, apartment, condo)?
I live with two other teachers. We share a three-bedroom condo near Asoke. It's 35,000 baht a month plus utilities, so my share is usually about 13,000.
Q4. What do you spend a month on the following things?
Transportation
Asoke is great - we have the BTS, MRT, airport link and canal boats within walking distance. Which is great because the traffic is a nightmare! I rely on public transport and probably spend about 2,000 baht per month.
Utility bills
Utility bills are shared between three and usually come to 2,000 - 3,000 baht each (mostly for electricity).
Food - both restaurants and supermarket shopping
Again, Soi Asoke is great! Every cuisine I could imagine is within reach, unfortunately I have to pay for it and it comes to 15 - 20,000 a month.
Nightlife and drinking
It's Asoke... clubs and bars of ALL types are here! I have one night out a week and spend a few thousand, so probably 15.000 - 20,000.
Books, computers
I spend almost nothing on books and computers as I have a school laptop and the library there is great.
Q5. How would you summarize your standard of living in one sentence?
Fantastic! I work hard (6 days a week) but enjoy life too. Then again, during the school holidays I usually only work Saturdays.
Q6. What do you consider to be a real 'bargain' here?
Accommodation - a large 3-bedroom condo in the middle of London (my home) would cost a LOT more! Taxis too, especially if you're sharing.
Q7. In your opinion, how much money does anyone need to earn here in order to survive?
Who knows? Everyone is different. I'm sure it's possible to live on 30,000 and many locals clearly live on a lot less. As a qualified professional however, I wouldn't want to. I've recently turned thirty and realised I need to start saving for the future. The question I often ask myself is... how much should I be saving in order to survive in the future? My calculations tell me to save at least 60,000 a month.
Phil's analysis and comment
You are clearly doing well Paul and you obviously love that Asoke area of Bangkok.
I would be very interested (as I'm sure would many others) on how sharing a place with two other teachers works out.
Personally, I never think humans are built to share living spaces, except with those we choose as our life partner and of course any children that may come along.
I shared a small condo with an old schoolfriend many years ago. We moved in as best friends but after nine excruciatingly long months, I was on the verge of committing murder. It started with small things. He would blow his nose on a tissue and then leave the tissue on the dining room table. WHY? He would clean his stinky sports shoes in the bathroom. He would make a cup of tea and never wash his cup up after him. Over time, the small annoyances started to stack up and sharing a living space became a living nightmare.
That was over 25 years ago. We haven't spoken since.
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